Rusted Master Sword 3D Printed Prop ⚔️  Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild DIY 🎮 3DIY

Rusted Master Sword 3D Printed Prop ⚔️ Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild DIY 🎮 3DIY

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What�s up, YouTube! I�m Andrew and this
is 3DiY, the show where you watch me swear at computers, 3d printers, and own two hands
until I end up with something cool. If you haven�t been living under a Goron
for the past week, you�ll know that The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild just dropped.
I�ve been a huge Zelda fan ever since playing Ocarina of Time as a kid, and the suspense
is really killing me! I want to get this game like Link wants to get with Zelda! I haven’t
been able to buy myself a Switch yet, so I’m taking the hype into my own hands and making
the Rusted Master Sword from Breath of the Wild with you today on 3DIY.
The first thing I’m going to need for the master sword build are some references. Since
Breath of the Wild hadn’t released yet while I was making this design, the only references
I had to go off of were these blurry shots from the trailers, the sword in the Breath
of the Wild logo, and a some images and video of the master sword model that’s included
with the Breath of the Wild Master Edition. I love when my creations have an interactive
element, so I wanted the sword to be removable from the base. Given that, and the fact that
I didn’t want to make this an exact recreation of the existing prop, I opted to mostly use
the in-game references. If I had used the Master Edition model as a reference I couldn’t
have made the sword removable, since this model clearly cuts off the end of the sword
to keep its proportions. Once I had my sword reference, I pulled it
into Fusion 360 and just kinda started to wing it. I figured I would mostly be able
to make the sword by tracing the various segments of the reference, and extruding and beveling
those tracings. This strategy was mostly right, but I had a lot of trouble making this wider
portion of the sword blade look right with the bevels.
I tried fucking around as much as I knew how, but I couldn’t for the life of me figure
out how to make it look right. The worst part? I had no idea how to google this. I tried
typing every fucking keyphrase I could think of into the search, but the fact is I still
don’t have the right language to describe what I wanted to do or how it differed from
a normal bevel. Maybe I should learn some adjectives other than ‘F*cking.’
In the end, what I was EASILY able to find on YouTube was this speed model video of someone
else making the master sword in Fusion 360. I’ll put the video **link** in the description.
It sped through the portion I needed way too fucking fast, but I was able to slow it down
frame by frame to figure it out. The trick was to make the sword blade in chunks, then
bevel those chunks individually. Using this method and a large amount of trial and error,
I was able to fumble my way through the blade until… Oh fuck yeah! That looks almost exactly
how I wanted it! Next I traced the Triforce engraving on the
face of the sword. I extruded and thickened it, curved a few choice edges, and used the
model to cut the engraving into the faces of the sword.
For the hilt, I traced all out all the individual shapes and used a combination of extrusion
and beveling to turn the flat shapes into the 3 dimensionals segments that I needed.
These wings are where things got a little fucking wonky. On my first try modeling this
wing-shaped crossguard, I made the mistake of having these interior lines in the middle
converge on the exact same point on the y axis. Because of that, when I tried to print
the hilt, even though the model looked like it joined up with itself, the slicer program
would treat it as though there was empty space between these segments. This was pretty fucking
frustrating since I had no idea why these gaps were appearing, and this issue was once
again mysteriously fucking impossible to google. Eventually, after trying every fucking slicer
program compatible with my printer, I conceded that the problem had to be my model, and I
took another stab at it. It was at this point that I realized the whole ‘point singularity’
issue and I made my second model thicker to separate those edges. This totally fixed the
problem and I could move on with no worries. Once I had finished all the basic shapes on
the hilt including a couple of revolved round pieces for the guard and pommel, I had to
figure out how to make the wrapped handle. This basically amounted to about 40 minutes
of trial and error with the coil tool. The combination of my barely understanding the
coil tool and not really knowing how the wrap was made lead me to try a lot of shit before
I eventually figured out that I needed to wrap 4 strands in order to make the pattern
that I was seeing. After that revelation I was able to make a wrap that l thought matched
the reference pretty damn well. Okay, wow yeah that looks like the master
sword, alright! BUT this project is the RUSTED master sword, so I gotta beat this thing the
hell up to simulate the damage it’s taken from hundreds of years of being the blade
of evil’s bane. The rust is all going to be painted on, but
all these scratches and knicks are going to be baked right into the model. Let me just
save myself a copy of this while it’s still pristine in case I want to use this model
again for an undamaged Master Sword, and we’ll get to beating this thing up good.
For the cuts and gouges in the sword, I made myself a couple of simple wedge shapes that
I could use to cut these knicks out of the blade and hilt. Using a few different sizes
and shapes of wedge ensured that it didn’t look too copy and pasted. I tried to remain
as faithful to the reference as possible with the placement of the scratches. I had to improvise
the placement for the scratches on the backside of the sword since I only had a reference
for the one side. The base was rather simple to make since It’s
just a couple of triangles. I checked the reference to get the right scale, but I had
to make it a little taller in order to properly hold the sword. I think the in game the sword
is partially underground. That’s not really an option if this is going to sit on a desk
or shelf. Now all that’s left is to cut out the slot
where the sword will fit in, bevel the edges to match the pedestal in the game, and make
some more of those cuts in the base as well. Now that the model is done, it’s time for
a 3d printing montage! Hyaaaaaa! I
experimented with a few different ways to print out the sword. My first inclination
was to print the hilt and blade separately, but this method needed supports and the overhangs
on the hilt and blade bevels made this less than ideal. In the end, I cut the blade right
down the center. This left a seam around the edges of the sword, but it’s a small price
to pay for a much easier and more reliable print.
Because I was having some trouble with this filament and bed adhesion, I ended up printing
with a raft to help the sword stick. These things are kind of a toss up whether they’re
surprisingly easy or super fucking hard to remove. In this case I had to get an exacto
knife involved, which I promptly sliced my finger open with. Fuck.
At this point, I decided to give up on the demonstration and just use the model I previously
prepared off camera. Sorry for ruining the movie magic for you, but my fucking finger
is bleeding now and I can’t be bothered to continue trying to remove this shit for
no reason. Sue me. Now that I’ve got both my sword halves,
I’m going to use some superglue and these teeny tiny clamps to fix them together. Since
the incident with Mjolnir *Flashback* I’ve occasionally been more careful with the superglue
and worn latex gloves to avoid getting any more of that diabolical shit on my bare skin.
This happened to be one of those occasions. Once the glue was cured and my finger had
*mostly* healed over, I set out to painting. First I coated both the sword and the base
in black acrylic paint. This works as kind of a lazy man’s primer, making it easier
for subsequent layers of paint to stick to the model better.
For the blade, I used this silvery metallic paint. I painted the hilt in a nice medium
blue, going over the details in yellow and green once that was dry.
The rust was built up in a few different layers. First I laid down a purpley red colour as
a base, then I built that up with a more of a reddish brown, and finally I went over it
all lightly with a slightly yellow black. These layers of different colours are what
really sell the effect and make the rust look real and dimensional.
The base was surprisingly easy. To achieve a natural, rocky look, I used this wide, round
brush with light amounts of paint and a rough dabbing motion. The trick with this technique
is to build up the colours from darkest to lightest, trying to find a good balance between
deliberately placing the paint and being a bit random to make it look organic.
I used the same technique with a few shades of green for the moss growing on the rock.
The finishing detail is the cracks in the stone. I used the thinnest brush I had to
paint on a few little cracks in an almost black brown. I tried to deliberately place
the cracks in places that complimented the model like near the cuts, and over a small
defect on the back face. Then, I took the light brown (almost yellow) paint and lined
one side of the cracks where the light would be hitting it to make the cracks look 3 dimensional
as fuck. Once the paint is all dry I’ll spray everything
with a protective top coat so the paint doesn’t chip, and my Breath of the Wild Rusted Master
Sword will be ready to slay some Gannon. This Master Sword may be beaten up, but it
still looks rad as fuck. This model really pushed my knowledge of Fusion 360 and 3D modeling.
It was definitely a lot harder than I expected, but I’m proud of myself for pushing past
the confusion and headaches and turning out this awesome little sword.
Like my other 3DiY creations, I’m selling these little Master Swords over on my Etsy
shop. If you want to buy one for yourself and help support the show so I can keep making
these fun builds for you guys, head over to to our etsy shop and use the code YOUTUBE10
for 10% off of your purchase. The link is in my bio.
Don’t forget to comment down below if you have ideas for future episodes, ways I could
have done better on this build, or even just to chat. I love hearing from you guys!

87 thoughts on “Rusted Master Sword 3D Printed Prop ⚔️ Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild DIY 🎮 3DIY”

  1. This model looks amazing!!! And it's also removable, maybe Nintendo should buy this model! It looks SO realistic

  2. Andrew! Your dedication and detail on this model is beyond compare! It looks freaking amazing! I'm consistently awed by your work! Great job!

  3. Your videos are extremely well done man. I absolutely love this model too. Huge Zelda fan. I'm working my way though breath of the wild now. Keep it up man.

  4. really cool man! i think the model itself is really nice, but i think you could have spent some more time on the paint job.
    keep making these Zelda videos!

  5. how's about making that sword into a stylus, like the pdp amiibo stand that plays the master sword theme.

  6. Just stumbled upon your channel and I think it's the best 3D printing channel to exist currently. Seriously your awesome. I think it would be dope af if you made a F.L.U.D.D from Super Mario Sunshine(the water jet pack). I would definitely buy that! Keep it up!

  7. Your a great YouTuber and I don't know why you dont at least have 10k subs,

    I'll help you to that, you earned a subscriber

  8. Fantasic job! During the beginning of the video, I thought that was the Master Edition model on the shelf behind you then it occurred to me that it was the one you made. Love the weathered paint look, I enjoy weathering more than anything when painting. I've probably made a half dozen models of the Master Sword in various incarnations at this point so I definitely understand the frustration with the hilt and wrap. I use Solidworks which actually won't let you create any geometry that can't exist in real life which can be both frustrating and a godsend when designing for 3d printing.

    I'm not going to shamelessly self promote my work here but feel free to send me a message if you want to talk shop. I'm currently working on making Figma figure scale 3d printable models of every single weapon, shield and bow in BotW (yes, even the soup ladle and spring loaded hammer) but I'm designing them for SLS to print through Shapeways.

    I just hope they actually release a BotW Link in the Figma line…

  9. It seems like your swearing helps your prints much better than my swearing helps mine. I'm going to have to subscribe in order to figure out how your profanity works bettet.

  10. Your channel deserves more subscribers. You made me laugh especially at the keyboard you are obviously very smart and talented but only 650 subscribers. Keep up with the good work

  11. Jesus… either don't swear or don't censor. Sounds like you write a script for the video so you add the swear words knowing you're gonna bleep it. Doesn't remotely sound natural.

  12. For weathering you could try the paint washing method next time. Looks extremely realistic.
    Swearing does not make you cooler by the way. you dont need that

  13. This thing will look super amazing on my shelf you did a really good job with this and I'm very impressed

    You earned a sub

  14. This is the coolest stuff I have seen i a long time!!! Hope you make more videos because i think your petty cool!!!!!!👍👍👍👍

  15. If you wouldnt swear unnecessarily all the time your vids were much more enjoyable. 99% of it disrupted the flow and I almost stopped watching because of how annoying it is. Would have been a shame because otherwise its good stuff.

  16. You saying fuck and bleeping it out every 3 seconds is one of the most annoying things I've ever seen on YouTube.

  17. Just wanna let you know I immediately subscribed after you said fucking and quit after cutting your finger… that's just common sense

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